Renoir vintage costume jewelry is well known for its “modernist” designs in solid copper. 

“Renoir of Hollywood” was founded by Jerry Fels, his brother-in-law, and another friend in 1946 and following a disastrous fire in 1948, changes were made the company was now “Renoir of California, Incorporated”.  Fels chose the name, Renoir, after noticing the success of Monet costume and he wanted the name to reflect his intent of producing fine, artistic jewelry. 

Later, in 1952, Fels started a new line of jewelry – “Matisse, Ltd”.  This line produced copper jewelry very similar to the Renoir line, but included enameling.  One will notice that some jewelry designs are marked “Renoir” or “Matisse”, while others are marked “Renoir Matisse”.  Designs that were made in copper only were marked with only Renoir and designs only with enameling were marked Matisse.  Some designs were available in both plain copper and with enameling and these designs are marked with both names.

One will notice that Renoir and Matisse copper jewelry, despite its age, shows no sign of tarnish.  Renoir of California developed a clear enamel coating which prevented tarnish and discoloration.

In the mid-1950s, Renoir began making a line of sterling silver jewelry called “Sauteur” in the same designs as the copper jewelry.  Later, in response to changing tastes, the Sauteur line of jewelry was available in a satin, gold plated finish and during the years 1961 – 1963 the line’s name was changed from “Sauteur” to “Golden Glow”, although no jewelry was marked with this name.

Renoir and Matisse discontinued operations in 1964 and the jewelry the companies produced is considered very collectible today.

*Much of this information was gleaned from the book, “Copper Art Jewelry, A Different Lustre” by Matthew L. Burkholz and Linda Lichtenberg Kaplan.  I highly recommend this book as it contains many beautiful color photographs, history, and information about Renoir jewelry as well as other companies producing copper art jewelry in the mid-20^th century.